Freshwater Aquarium Setup
So, you’ve got a tank, right? Well… what exactly are you going to put into that pretty little tank.
Your Substrate
The substrate is what’s on the very bottom of the tank, and is an important part of your freshwater tank.
Tiny Substrates
The choice between a small substrate size and a big substrate size depends on a few things.
Smaller substrate has a number of good traits. Fish that nest in substrate appreciate something smaller, as it’s much easier for the fish to work with.
Tiny rocks and sand are the most popular of the small substrate.
They’re easy to find and often free, as well as usually giving the tank a visually attractive addition.
There are several downsides to a smaller substrate, though.
Some fish will pick up substrate and move it around with their mouth. This can irritate their mouth – especially if you’re using sand.
Medium-sized Substrate
‘Average’ substrate works for many people in different ways. Overall, you’re more likely to see this medium-sized substrate – decent sized rocks, pebbles, and more – in most tanks.
Big Substrate
Big substrate is rocks out of a rivers and bigger.
While this is rare in many freshwater tanks, some owners like to cover their entire bottom with large, thick substrate.
The downside with this substrate is that food that is not eaten by the fish will sink and accumulate in between the large substrate.
This is very hard to clean and will eventually contaminate the water and could harm your fish.
Substrate and Your Fish
Consider your substrate carefully as some substrates can affect the water and the fish.
For example, crushed coral can raise the pH levels in the water.
Substrate can also affect your fish in different ways, not just contaminate the water.
Substrates to Avoid
Basically, you need to avoid substrate that will affect the water that your fish live in.
This is a list of some substrates to avoid:
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Limestone
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Geodes
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Shells
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Dolomite
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Granite
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Slate
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Quartz
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Lava rock
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Sandstone
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Onyx
Before you add anything to your aquarium, that you haven’t purchased specifically for the use in your tank, you should test them to ensure they’re going to be safe for the fish.
There are two methods that work well:
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Is to simply place several drops of vinegar on the rocks, or gravel, that you want to use in your tank. If it foams, fizzes, or does more than you think that it should, it contains deposits of calcium that will harm your fish. .
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Another way is to remove a bucket of water from your aquarium. Test the pH level. Place the substrate into the bucket of water and test the pH again. Allow it to stand in the bucket for a week, and then test again. If there’s no drastic change, it will be safe to use.
Testing, Testing and More Testing
There are literally hundreds of different testing kits that you can buy online or at your local pet store. Figuring out which ones are needed is important.
pH Levels Test Kit
pH is one of the most cited causes of fish stress, and ultimately fish death.
If you have any issues with pH ‘drifting’, or if you have a sudden, unexplained change, check the Carbonate Hardness (KH) levels of the water.
Ammonia Test Kit
Ammonia should only be elevated during the startup cycle – a mature tank should not have elevated ammonia levels, but these can occur because of dirty water, filters, medication that disrupted the cycle or even if the tank is overstocked.
Nitrite is a toxic byproduct of the breakdown that happens to organic waste, it should be at a very low level – less then 1.0.
Nitrate is only mildly poisonous to your fish, but it can still hurt them if your levels get too high. You shouldn’t exceed 300 ppm (parts per million).
Power Strip
You’re going to have a lot of things to plug in, and for this you’re going to need something to plug it in.
Because we’re working with water as well as electricity, we suggest you purchasing a power strip that’s not only waterproof, but protects against surges.
